16×50 Binoculars
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 Bushnell PowerView 13 1650 Binocular BRAND NEW IN THE PACKAGING  US $39.99
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 Nikon 16x50 Action VII Binocular Black USA 7223 US $107.68
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 Pentax XCF Series Binoculars 16 x 50 Pentax 65793 US $95.99
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 Nikon Action Extreme EX 16 x 50 Waterproof Binoculars with Case US $99.99
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 Tasco binocular case imitation leather 10x50 7x50 16x US $3.95
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 Russian CCCP 16x50mm Binoculars US $50.00
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 Vector Optics 4 16x50 Rifle Scope Includes Flip up CoversScope Rings Sunshade US $45.00
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 Bushnell Binoculars 16x50 US $10.00
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 VANGUARD KF 1650 Binoculars WITH SOFT CASE 16 X 50 MM FIELD 42 US $29.99
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 VINTAGE BINOCULARS 16x50 REGENT TRIPLE TESTED decent minor repair required US $1.56
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 Nikon 16x50 Action Extreme Binocular USA 7247 US $169.45
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 Bushnell Powerview 16x50 Binocular US $49.95
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 Pentax XCF Series Binoculars 16 x 50 US $91.58
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 Nikon 16x50 Action Extreme Waterproof Binoculars US $206.45
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Pentax 65809 PCF II 12x50 Waterproof Binocular
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PENTAX 16 X 50 XCF SERIES BINOCULARS
Sale Price: $128.00 |
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Fox Humvee 16 x 32mm Compact Binocular
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Celestron SkyMaster Giant 15x70 Binoculars with Tripod Adapter
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Bushnell Powerview 12x25 Compact Folding Roof Prism Binocular (Black)
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What should I look for when purchasing a pair of binoculars?
Looking to purchase a decent pair of binoculars. I don't hunt, just for general camping, looking at bears, birds, mountains, etc. Something like 10x42. I was told anything over 10 would be blurry due to your hand shaking. Bushnell has a 10x42 for $180 and a Bushnell 16x50 for $60. trying to keep price under $200.
The more zoom you have, the harder it is to keep the subject steady in view- but the best way I've found to remedy that is to 'cram' the optics between your hands and brace yourself, your arm, the piece against whatever steady object you can find. The more points of brace you create, the less shake you have... if you absolutely must be able to see clearly while holding them one handed, bouncing across the terrain on a horse.... then just cup your hands in the right shape and pretend. It can be difficult to hold high mag optics still to avoid shake- but its just an acquired skill set. In my opinion, choose the magnification you want.
The higher the magnification is, the more you have a battle between quality and price- just keep that in mind. At the lower end, you can find dozens of 'good enough, decent' products that are a bargain and good equipment. The higher you go, the more the price jumps... beware of really high magnification lenses that are low in price- you just can't cut corners and get good results at really high magnification, but you can at lower ranges.
Important aspects:
Eye relief- this is the distance your eye is supposed to be from the surface of the viewing lens- too close and it turns into a glowing blob, too far away and it starts to vignette, that is have dark shadow silhouettes imposed on the image.
Make sure the pair you buy are set up to comfortably pop right to your eye, and that the relief distance is easy and comfortable to find and hold in your sight and posture.
[btw: because they are purely mechanical, binocs can be used to increase zoom in cameras, like a cellphone camera. if you can get the camera lens to match the right relief without weird light effects, high zoom pictures are easy. This is handy when you can see it just great but your camera can't seem to zoom in enough on a far animal for that perfect shot. The picture won't be high quality, but you can show the family that one big moose- and they'll believe you!]
Eye separation- there is no standard distance between the pupils of a set of human eyes. Thats why binoculars pivot swivel to change the distance. Each side of a binocular is separate from the other, so twisting the axis doesn't change the image, just brings the center of each lens closer or farther away. Make sure the pair you pick can easily adjust to you, and aren't too close or more likely, too far apart. [more common, binoculars are more often too wide than too narrow]
Independent focus: in good pairs, one lens[usually the right] will have it's own focus separate from the other, and then the actual focus knob will adjust both in tandem. What this is for is if one of your eyes focuses differently than the other[ they most likely do]. I wear glasses/contacts, and I can easily use binoculars without them, I just have to adjust the differential focus so that both eyes are 'the same' in focus and then use the main focus to bring anything in the field into view. With contacts on, I just set the differential to zero and use the main focus, as if I had perfect, matching vision. This feature is very useful, and if you are the only one to use the pair, you'll most likely never touch it again once you have it 'just right.' It's also a huge pain in the *** to adjust it back and forth, back and forth, if you're sharing the pair with another person.
A few more features to consider:
Lens scratching/anti-scratch - many mfgs offer special non scratch coatings. Unlike eyeglasses, a scratch on a pair of binocs pretty much destroys the value and usefulness of the pair: one whole side of the vision has a blurry 'ghost' across part of the image, and repairs are expensive.
Moisture seal: any difference in temperature or air pressure[elevation] can introduce moisture to the inside of the set. And, as easily as it can get in, it's IMPOSSIBLE to get out. It might be temporary, but it might permanently damage or destroy the set or greatly impair the image.
Lens cup comfort- the little rubber pads around the lenses to make viewing more comfortable. A secret about binoculars: if they aren't comfortable in the store, they won't change once their bought. What you see is what you get. All binoculars feel a bit unnatural at first, and if you don't wear glasses, just holding anything that close to your eyes can make you feel crazy at first. It's more important that the rubber cups fit your eye size, and don't drive a wild hair up you for whatever reason. Some itch or have texture on them. All of them appeal to somebody, what one person likes another won't and there's no 'right' design- it's personal preference.
Weight: often a heavy pair is a well made pair, but you do have to carry it, often around your neck.
Close and far: like I said, pick the zoom level you want. Just decide how close you want to still be able to see, and how far you want to go- every binocular pair has a limit to how close it can focus and how much the image is magnified. You have to be
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